Saturday, December 31, 2005

Fazenda do Serrote

A mode of tourism I have come to appreciate since my first visits to Brazil in 1992, is the "hotel fazenda," the "hotel-farm," a cousin of what in Italy is called "agritourismo," and also a relative of the American dude ranch. I have stayed at a number of hotel fazendas in the mountainous regions of the states of Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais. They typically feature, as a basis, rustic yet comfortable lodging combined with meals prepared from locally growned foods (often grown on the property itself, which may be a fully functioning farm). There will additionally always be beautiful scenery, nature trails, and often waterfalls, lakes, swimming pools, tennis, and horses. The Fazenda do Serrote has all of this, and the very warm hospitality of the young owners, Flavio and Ana Paula. Flavio is a horseman, and leads daily rides with a handsome team of horses. (My daughter pointed out the resemblance between Flavio's horse and "Spirit"). Below are some photos from our recent stay.

The entrance gate with an overview of the property.

A magnificent eucalyptus stands next to the entry.

Flavio transformed a marsh into a wonderful lake. Here is stands still before the morning bathers arrive.

My son Ike/Calvin/Theo (he keeps changing his name these days) enjoyed kayaking the length of the lake...

...and the tiroleio--a rope tied from near the top of the entry road across the lake. There is great fear when you first jump off the platform at the top! But it is a thrilling ride that takes you across the valley and down to the coolness of the lake.

The kids all enjoyed fishing--here, my daughter showing off a small catch (all were thrown back into the lake).

Horseback riding was a favorite activity...

...even for the little ones.

Riding the trails behind the property, we came across these amazing ferns--a seeming glimpse into tropical prehistory.

This wonderful example of popular Brazilian ceramic art sat in the bar, which was also well stocked with a large variety of local cachaças (sugar cane alcohol; it is the basis of the popular Brazilian cocktail called the caipirinha). My favorite was the banana cachaça, it was like a really good rum, enriched by the addition of banana. After three or four shots, you are guaranteed to be like the ceramic figure on the front left.



Above: On Friday, lunch was animated by the music of Som da Terra, a group specializing in "Musica regional e caipira" ("regional and country/hillbilly music"). The group, led by Eder Kegele (second from the left in the first photo), hailed from the nearby small town of Aventureiro.

More Brazilian xmastime photos

Nativity scene in popular Brazilian ceramic style.

A street vendor shows Christmas spirit in Leblon.


Above: Christmas fashions on display in Brazil.

A lorry, approaching the Dois Irmãos tunnel (also known as Túnel Zuzu Angel) below Rocinha, proclaims its faith.

A poster for an exhibition on "The Lady in the Tutti-Frutti hat" at a juice bar in Leblon. Books and exhibits are marking the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the passing of "a pequena notavel."

A bloated uber-production plays at the Leblon cinema.

Ouro Preto and Mariana

Some photos from a visit in December 2005:



Above: Views of Ouro Preto from the dining room of the Solar das Lajes, a very special inn owned and operated by Brazilian artist Peter [Pedro] Caspar Jens Correia de Araujo.

Breakfast at Solar das Lajes.

Visiting with the congenial artist.

Flicka, soulful mini pinscher of Solar das Lajes.


Above: Tropical artistry at the hotel.

One of many fountains in Ouro Preto; this one is opposite the Solar das Lajes.

The Praça Tiradentes

View descending from Praça Tiradentes

Image of legendary Afro-Brazilian Chico Rei, at the entrance of the Chico Rei gold mine in Ouro Preto.

This church sits on a promontory looking down on Ouro Preto. The donkey reminded me of Bresson's film, Au hasard Balthasar.

Near the church, Buddhist instruments at a private Zen temple/retreat.

Public square in Mariana.

A mother and daughter enjoy the park.

A street off the main square, Mariana.

A typical example of the baroque art adorning the churches of Minas.

Part of the lunch offerings at Lua Cheia in Mariana. These hot dishes form part of the hearty cuisine of Minas Gerais ("comida mineira") a rich mixture of meats, rice, beans, and greens.

In Cachoeira de Brumado, women specialize in weaving carpets with geometric designs from a special fiber; the men make pottery of clay (barra) and stone (often, pedra de sabao--soapstone).

The cachoeira (waterfall) itself.

Friday, December 23, 2005

Xmas in Rio 2005

Above, a view of the sand art that a Brazilian friend of mine considered to be in bad taste. But hey, it is Christmas in the southern hemisphere.

Christmas in Brazil coincides with summer vacation. So the themes are, rather than snow, reindeer, and sleigh rides, sun, thongs, and the beach. Those who insist on a white Christmas can stare at the sand at Copacabana beach--don´t try at Ipanema, because you´ll only see flesh tones and of course bits of color where the bikini straps are supposed to be. I´ll be posting a basically visual blog over the next few weeks. Enjoy, and, to all who visit this site, a very happy holiday season. Above: A boy faces the white espuma of the surf at Copacabana beach. You can see part of the famous sidewalk design at Copacabana right under the boy. Two young women got in the way of this photograph. ______________________________________________________________

Below: A guy and gal from Ipanema, December 2005. This about sums up the genesis of the famous song.

Below: Humans are not the only ones getting tanned at the Praia da Urca. Aphrodite here is keeping her eyes on the famous Pão de Açucar (Sugarloaf). If you know the alternative meaning of pão in Portuguese, you´ll understand why her hand gestures suggestively at her toga.

Below: It´s two days to Xmas. Shopping´s done, surf´s up


Below: Scenery on the route between Newark, New Jersey and Rio de Janeiro.